Kyoto Autumn Leaves Family Trip Day 2: Kinkaku-ji and Arashiyama

November 29, 2006. Main route for Day 2: Kinkaku-ji and Arashiyama.

The second day of our Kyoto autumn leaves family trip looked very standard on paper: Kinkaku-ji in the morning, Arashiyama in the afternoon. But the real story was not just the sightseeing route. It was the reality of moving through Kyoto in autumn with Lisa: golden temple, red maple leaves, a child who walked for about ten minutes before needing to be carried, a packed Arashiyama, and a scenic train we could not get seats for.

In other words, the day was beautiful. It was also exhausting.

Kinkaku-ji: Slowing the Pace First

After a relaxed breakfast, we went downstairs and took the bus to Kinkaku-ji. Traveling with a child makes one lesson very clear: never pack the schedule too tightly. On earlier Kyoto trips I might have tried to squeeze in a few more stops. This time, the route depended much more on how much energy everyone still had.

Kinkaku-ji was built in 1397 as the villa of shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu. It was originally called Kitayama-dono and later became a Buddhist temple, Rokuon-ji. Because the exterior of its central Shariden hall is covered in gold leaf, it became known as Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion. The original Shariden was destroyed by fire in 1950. The current building was reconstructed in 1955, and the gold leaf on its exterior was renewed in 1987.

The Golden Pavilion at Kinkaku-ji beside the pond and pine trees. — A closer view of Kinkaku-ji and the garden after the morning bus ride.

Autumn Leaves With a Child: The Real Workout

When traveling with a child, do not make the itinerary too rushed...and not only because children get tired easily...

I was exhausted too >.<'"

At each stop, Lisa usually walked for the first ten minutes or so, and then she had to be carried. Good thing we brought the child carrier. From a distance it looked a little like "Ning Caichen"...but without it, we probably could have gone home right after finishing the day's route.

Father carrying a young child in a backpack carrier under autumn maple trees. — Lisa usually walked for a few minutes before the carrier became necessary.

The last time I came to Kyoto, in mid-November 2003, it was too early and there were not many autumn leaves yet. This time the timing was just right. Around Kinkaku-ji, the leaves had turned a strong red. For me, this was not just another proof-of-visit photo. It felt like finally making up for the autumn colors I missed the previous time.

Bright red maple leaves at Kinkaku-ji during late autumn. — The timing was just right this time, with maple leaves turning bright red.

Arashiyama: Beauty and Crowds Arrived Together

In the afternoon we took the bus to Arashiyama. Traffic slowed down a little as we got close. When we got off near Togetsukyo Bridge, I almost fainted...there were people everywhere, and even finding a place to eat was difficult.

In Japan, autumn leaves viewing and cherry blossom viewing are like two national events every year. Grandpas and grandmas from all over the country take the opportunity to travel around. Arashiyama in autumn was beautiful, but it was not the kind of beauty you quietly have to yourself. It was the kind where everyone squeezes into the same season together.

A Saga-Arashiyama Station stone marker surrounded by autumn colors. — Arashiyama was packed during autumn leaves season, even around the station area.

This was already my third visit to the Arashiyama area. This time we walked around Jojakko-ji and nearby places, then returned to Saga-Arashiyama Station planning to take the Torokko train to Kameoka. Travel guides all described that valley route as beautifully scenic, and I had wanted to ride that little train for a long time. On the previous two visits, we played too late and missed the last train. This time, we had not reserved seats in advance, and with so many people pouring into Arashiyama for the autumn leaves, it was completely sold out!!

Maybe next time...what a pity~

Arashiyama After Three Visits

Arashiyama is famous for both autumn leaves and cherry blossoms, but many of the Buddhist temples in this area are also resting places for nobles and members of old ruling families. Adashino Nenbutsu-ji, for example, is where many nameless dead were gathered and memorialized. Personally, the area feels a little like Liuzhangli in Taipei. The difference is that Japanese people seem to look at death more calmly and do not mind living beside it.

Since this was already my third time here, I had gone to the places I dared to go, as mentioned in the 2003 and 2002 travel notes. As for the places I still had not visited...we will see if there is another chance someday~~