Kyoto Autumn Leaves Family Trip Day 3: Nara Deer Park, Todai-ji, and Nigatsu-do

November 30, 2006. Day 3 route: Nara Deer Park, Todai-ji, and Nigatsu-do.

By the third day of our Kyoto autumn leaves family trip, yesterday's walking had caught up with us, so we naturally got a late start. By the time we took the private railway from Kyoto Station to Nara, it was almost noon. The plan was simple: slow down, see the deer, visit the temples. Instead, the deer took over the first half of the day.

The most memorable part of Nara that day was not a carefully arranged route. It was those deer: cute at first glance, but much more assertive once food appeared. From the deer park to the gate of Todai-ji and later along the way toward Nigatsu-do, they were almost always around, turning the day into a family diary of autumn leaves and deer avoidance.

Arriving Late at the Deer Park

After leaving the station and walking toward the deer park near Nara Park, deer were everywhere. At first it felt fresh and charming, especially with a child along. Deer walking right beside us was exactly the kind of Nara scene you imagine before the trip.

But once we got closer, it became clear that these deer were extremely well trained. They would never dare steal crackers from the vendor's stall, but once a tourist bought a pack and held it in hand, a crowd immediately gathered. One moment they were adorable; the next moment we were protecting both the crackers and the child.

Deer crowding near visitors in Nara Park while waiting for crackers. — Once the deer crackers were in hand, the deer quickly gathered around.

A parent holding a child while several deer gather around in Nara Park. — Feeding the deer while holding the child quickly became a hands-full moment.

After feeding them, we tried to leave. The deer seemed to say, "No way." When I ignored them, one actually got angry and bit my leg...I was so mad~~

Even at the gate of Todai-ji, deer were still stationed everywhere. They were not only watching for crackers; they even went after the map in the child's hand. What should have been a calm walk toward the great temple became a family march of advancing and defending at the same time.

Buying a Deer Hat to Blend In

Since the deer were clearly the main characters in Nara, we bought a deer hat...

A child wearing a pink deer hat during the Nara visit. — A deer hat felt like the right souvenir after being surrounded by deer.

Time to disguise ourselves as one of them~~ Of course, it did not really make the deer leave us alone, but the hat looked great on the child and gave us a small comeback after being surrounded by the herd.

A child wearing a deer hat near the Nara deer. — Trying to blend in with the deer, at least in spirit.

Ha...finally escaped them and reached the gate of Todai-ji~~

The family approaching the gate area of Todai-ji in Nara. — Finally reaching the gate of Todai-ji after getting past the deer.

Seeing Todai-ji After the Deer

Ladies and gentlemen...ta-da...right in front of us was Nara's Todai-ji, the temple that made me blurt out at the time: the largest wooden temple building in Japan!!

After spending the earlier part of the walk dealing with deer, standing in front of Todai-ji finally felt like we had entered the main part of Nara. The scale of the hall had a completely different kind of presence from the chaotic cuteness of the deer park.

The large wooden hall of Todai-ji viewed from the temple grounds. — Todai-ji appeared with a completely different sense of scale after the deer park.

Time for a family photo~ When traveling with a child, so much time goes into moving, carrying, and watching everything at once. Stopping for a photo in front of a place like this is the kind of moment that makes the day feel worthwhile later.

Family standing together in front of Todai-ji. — A family photo in front of Todai-ji.

The maple leaves here were really beautiful~~ Nara was not only about deer. Around Todai-ji, the red leaves had a strong presence too. Walking near the hall, my eyes kept getting pulled toward those patches of red.

Red maple leaves glowing near the Todai-ji temple grounds. — Bright red maple leaves around Todai-ji.

A child in a pink hat sitting near temple steps in Nara. — A quiet moment on the steps near the temple, with the deer hat still on.

Ginkgo Trees on the Way to Nigatsu-do

Leaving the area around Todai-ji, the path toward Nigatsu-do passed through a stretch of ginkgo trees. After the red leaves earlier, this part turned into a field of yellow, and the mood became much quieter. We also happened to see an elderly man feeding the deer, a much calmer scene than our own earlier struggle with them.

The ground and trees were full of yellow leaves, giving the walk a different feeling~ It was still autumn, but this section did not rely on a famous landmark. It was more like scenery that slowly appeared while walking.

A path covered with yellow ginkgo leaves in Nara. — The ginkgo leaves gave the walk toward Nigatsu-do a different autumn mood.

Autumn trees with yellow leaves and red maples near the path to Nigatsu-do. — Yellow leaves and red maples made the late-afternoon walk feel calm.

We wandered around a bit more, and by the time it was getting dark, we headed back to Kyoto~~ The day was not packed with many stops, but it stayed memorable because of the deer, Todai-ji, the red leaves, and the ginkgo trees. Traveling with a child is often like this: what remains is not the itinerary, but the tired, funny, slightly chaotic moments in between.

Kyoto Autumn Leaves Family Trip Day 1: Kiyomizu-dera Kyoto Autumn Leaves Family Trip Day 2: Kinkaku-ji and Arashiyama

Kyoto Autumn Leaves Family Trip Day 3: Nara Deer Park, Todai-ji, and Nigatsu-do

Kyoto Autumn Leaves Family Trip Day 4: Komyo-ji in Nagaokakyo and Ginkaku-ji Kyoto Autumn Leaves Family Trip Day 5