Domestic Travel — Southern Taiwan / Caoling, Yunlin County, and Fengshan, Chiayi County

Caoling + Fengshan Two-Day Trip, Day 1 — Wannian Canyon

Rock walls and riverbed shaped by flowing water in Wannian Canyon
Wannian Canyon

June 5, 2010 — Caoling and Fengshan two-day trip, photographed with a Canon EOS 500D and an 18–55mm F3.5–5.6 lens.

That weekend, I took Lisa along on a two-day tour with a group of aunties, heading to Caoling in Yunlin County and Fengshan, also known as Shigupan, in Chiayi County.

Since this was an aunties’ tour, we set off bright and early. The bus left right on time at 6:30 a.m.—completely against my usual belief that travel should be leisurely @.@'"

We stopped briefly in Dajia on the way and paid a visit to the famous Jenn Lann Temple.

Temple architecture and entrance at Dajia Jenn Lann Temple
A stop at Dajia Jenn Lann Temple

The basement housed an exhibition area filled with carved works, along with a Mazu statue made of gold. Visitors could see it, but photography was not allowed.

Intricate traditional carving inside Jenn Lann Temple
One of the temple’s carved decorations
Colorful traditional architectural detail inside Jenn Lann Temple
Another richly decorated temple detail

Looking up, the temple’s richly decorated beams and intricate details were just as impressive. It certainly lived up to its reputation as one of Taiwan’s great temples.

Richly detailed beams and decorations inside Jenn Lann Temple
Ornate beams at Jenn Lann Temple

After another long stretch on the bus, we finally arrived in mist-shrouded Caoling.

Mountain scenery at Caoling covered in mist
Mist-shrouded Caoling

The legendary Wannian Canyon lay deeper along the mountain road.

Mountain road or entrance leading toward Wannian Canyon at Caoling
The mountain road toward Wannian Canyon

The lush, secluded scenery made it feel as though we had wandered into a Jin Yong novel, deep into the mountains where some peerless martial-arts master might be hiding away.

Deep, green forest scenery along the route to Wannian Canyon
Mountain scenery straight out of a martial-arts novel

We followed the muddy trail for about twenty minutes after the rain.

Visitors walking along the muddy mountain trail toward Wannian Canyon
A muddy trail after the rain

Then, farther along the path, Wannian Canyon suddenly appeared before us.

Rock walls and valley of Wannian Canyon seen from the trail
The canyon finally comes into view

Standing at the bottom of the canyon, we could see how years of flowing water had carved the rock into beautiful layers and sweeping patterns. From different angles, the rock walls, riverbed, and stream overlapped into one remarkable landscape.

Layered rocks shaped by flowing water at the bottom of Wannian Canyon
Sedimentary patterns carved by water
Exposed layered rock walls and watercourse in Wannian Canyon
Layered rock walls in Wannian Canyon
Curved erosion patterns left by flowing water on rock in Wannian Canyon
Curving lines across the canyon rock
Close view of sedimentary layers and erosion marks in Wannian Canyon
Erosion marks seen up close
Stream flowing between rock layers across the rugged riverbed of Wannian Canyon
A stream threading through rugged rock
Sedimentary terrain and mountain walls at the bottom of Wannian Canyon
The canyon floor at Wannian Canyon
Rock layers extending through the valley at Wannian Canyon
One last look at the canyon

On the walk back, I casually snapped two butterflies feeding beside the trail.

Butterfly feeding on a mountain plant beside the trail
A feeding butterfly on the way back
A second butterfly feeding on a plant beside the mountain trail
Another butterfly beside the trail

Our next stop was another Caoling attraction, the “Little Sky Ladder.” At first glance, I honestly could not see what was so special about it.

Little Sky Ladder suspension bridge spanning a valley or stream at Caoling
Caoling’s Little Sky Ladder

The guide explained that the 1999 Jiji earthquake triggered a massive landslide at Caoling, creating a barrier lake about five kilometers long upstream on the Qingshui River. The lake, called New Caoling Lake, became a scenic attraction with pavilions and walking paths. In 2004, Typhoon Mindulle caused extensive landslides in the Alishan region, and the resulting debris filled the lake.

So by the time we saw it in 2010, the Little Sky Ladder was really just an ordinary suspension bridge ~.~'"

Our hotel that evening was nothing fancy, but it was reasonably clean. Vegetables grew around the property, and the owners kept chickens, ducks, and pigs. I suspected the fried river fish at dinner had probably been caught by the owner as well. The place seemed almost entirely self-sufficient—very impressive @.@'"

Courtyard, growing area, or animal enclosure around the lodging at Caoling
Everyday life around our mountain hotel
Lisa crouching beside the road to observe or touch sensitive plants
Sensitive plants that kept Lisa busy for ages
Lisa observing a mountain plant or animal near the lodging at Caoling
One more little discovery in the mountains

Surrounded by the mountain’s rich plant and animal life, Lisa spent the entire afternoon bouncing around in excitement. Every plant and tiny creature near the hotel became another discovery; a patch of sensitive plants by the roadside alone could keep her crouched there playing for ages.

Ah, sensitive plants… How long had it been since those of us living in the city had seen one?

Continue reading:

Caoling + Fengshan Two-Day Trip — Fengshan Scenic Area

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