Southern Taiwan Travel / Fengshan Village, Alishan Township, Chiayi County

Caoling and Fengshan, Day 2 — Fengshan Scenic Area

Mountains and a river valley seen from the Fengshan observation deck
The valley unfolding below the Fengshan observation deck

June 6, 2010 · Caoling and Fengshan · Canon EOS 500D · 18–55mm F3.5–5.6

Fengshan Observation Deck

Fengshan is a village in Alishan Township, Chiayi County. Formerly known as Shigupan, it sits at an elevation of about 750 meters. The Tashan mountain range surrounds the village, forming a basin threaded with streams and dramatic valley scenery.

After several typhoons, floodwater had torn the mountain roads to pieces. Even some of the bridges had been swept off to who-knows-where @.@'"

That meant a long stretch of our drive from Caoling to Fengshan went straight across a dry riverbed crowded with enormous rocks ~.~'"

A temporary route to Fengshan crossing a dry riverbed scattered with boulders
Driving across the dry riverbed on the way to Fengshan
The vehicle route crossing a riverbed filled with loose stones and boulders
The rough track across the riverbed
A vehicle following a storm-damaged route through the mountains
A mountain road left almost unrecognizable after the storms

The ride was so rough that it nearly shook our butts in half @.@'"

Fortunately, our minibus driver doubled as a guide and kept everyone entertained. When we passed an aiyu plant, he launched into a perfectly serious explanation:

“Look to your left. That’s one of our local specialties—the aiyu plant. It’s a climbing vine that usually grows over tree trunks or rocks. Those green things are its fruit. Once they ripen, you cut them open, turn them inside out and dry them to make the aiyu seeds we normally see.”

Then came the punchline: “If they were ripe, I’d stop and let you pick some. Take as many as you want—it’s fine…because they aren’t mine @.@'"…”

He was joking, of course, but he had all the aunties on the bus laughing. Later, he brought us to the shop his family ran, where everyone bought enormous containers of camellia oil. Whether anyone would actually cook with it—or eat the result—was another question, but at least we were helping the mountain community and supporting the local economy ~.~'"

At the entrance to the Fengshan Scenic Area, the driver asked whether anyone noticed something unusual about the stone inscription. One sharp-eyed auntie saw that the character 流 in 土石流—“debris flow”—was missing a stroke. He immediately explained that everyone there wished debris flows could be “a little less,” too.

A missing stroke in the stone inscription at the Fengshan Scenic Area entrance
The entrance inscription where the “debris flow” is a little less

Looking down from the newly built Shigupan Bridge, the marks across the broad riverbed made the force of the debris flow easy to imagine.

Debris-flow traces across the riverbed seen from Shigupan Bridge
The broad riverbed below Shigupan Bridge

Even after all that wind and rain, the valley had lost none of its grandeur.

Mountains, a river valley and dense vegetation in Fengshan
Fengshan Valley, still magnificent after the storms

Along the way, we saw suspension bridges spanning the valley, giving residents another way across without relying only on road bridges supported by piers. Looking back from the trail, the bridges appeared to hang between the forested slopes.

A suspension bridge connecting two sides of the forested valley
A suspension bridge spanning Fengshan Valley
A suspension bridge surrounded by vegetation in Fengshan Valley
Looking back toward the bridge from the trail

We eventually reached the Fengshan observation deck.

The Fengshan observation deck surrounded by layered mountain scenery
Arriving at the Fengshan observation deck
Valleys and distant peaks viewed from the Fengshan observation deck
Layer upon layer of mountains beyond the observation deck
Jiaolong Waterfall seen across the valley from the Fengshan observation deck
Jiaolong Waterfall on the distant mountainside

Layers of peaks and river valleys opened before us, with Jiaolong Waterfall—Fengshan’s most recognizable landmark—visible on the distant mountainside.

A little farther on, we found a guesthouse tucked between the mountains and water. With scenery like this on every side…what a location…

A guesthouse overlooking the mountain valley and water in Fengshan
A guesthouse tucked unexpectedly between mountain and water
Mountains and a river valley seen from the guesthouse area
The wide-open valley view from the guesthouse
Forest and waterside scenery surrounding the Fengshan guesthouse
Quiet forest and water beside the guesthouse

While everyone was admiring the view, someone suddenly asked, “Wait…where did Lisa go?!”

An older woman had found several stag beetles under a tree. She caught two large ones to take home for her elementary-school-aged grandson. Once Lisa heard about that, she insisted on taking one home, too.

For the sake of protecting nature, the answer was obviously no!! All right…to be honest, I also dislike having anything with more than four legs inside my house @.@'"

Just before Lisa could deploy a full-scale tantrum, a kind grandmother put one of the beetles into a bottle for her. Look how happy she was… Everyone gathered under the tree to inspect her new friend.

Lisa smiling while holding a bottle containing a stag beetle
Lisa was delighted to get a stag beetle
Lisa standing beneath a tree with a stag beetle in a container
Lisa holding her new friend beneath the tree
Lisa and her family looking at the stag beetle in its bottle beneath a tree
Everyone gathered to inspect Lisa’s stag beetle

Oh…my…God… Were we really going to bring that beetle home? If we killed it, wouldn’t that be one more terrible deed on our conscience?! Lisa, meanwhile, clutched the bottle and clearly had no intention of giving it up.

Lisa clutching the beetle bottle, reluctant to leave it behind
But…I really want to take it home…
Dad crouching beside Lisa to explain why the stag beetle cannot be taken home
Come here, Lisa—Dad needs to explain something…

Dad crouched beside her and tried to explain: “When little explorers go exploring, they mustn’t damage nature. This is where wild animals and insects live. Think about it—if someone visited our house, said they really liked you, and then carried you away, would you want that?”

Lisa listening as Dad explains that wild insects have homes of their own
A nature lesson for our little explorer
Lisa looking uncertain after hearing Dad’s comparison
Umm…
Lisa still considering whether to leave the stag beetle in its home
Umm…umm…
Lisa finally agreeing not to take the stag beetle home
Okay…then we can come back and play with it next time…

Phew~~ We finally convinced the little rascal ^.^

On the way home, we came across a field of sunflowers blooming beside a country road. Their bright yellow faces turned toward the sunlight and brought our two-day journey to a fitting close.

Yellow sunflowers blooming in the sunlight beside the road home
Sunflowers blooming beside a country road on the way home
Yellow sunflower blossoms in a rural field
Sunflowers facing the light in the country fields
A close view of a sunflower photographed on the way home
A sunflower bringing the two-day journey to a close

Our two-day, one-night trip through central Taiwan had covered only two main sights, but giving Lisa the chance to spend time in nature was probably the most precious part of the journey for her.

Related post:

Caoling and Fengshan—Wannian Canyon

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