Three Days in Hualien / Xiulin Township, Hualien County

Three Days in Hualien, Part 1 — Mukumugi

Clear mountain water and rocky banks in the Mukumugi valley
Mukumugi, the first stop on our three-day trip to Hualien.

On August 24, 2011, the first stop on our three-day trip to Hualien was the almost mythical mountain retreat of Mukumugi.

Mukumugi lies in Tongmen Village, Xiulin Township, Hualien County. Its name is a transliteration from the Truku language, recalling how the first Truku people to settle here praised this mountain landscape in their own tongue. Rich in natural scenery, it was also nicknamed “Little Taroko.”

At the time, visitors needed a mountain-entry permit to enter the Mukumugi ecological corridor, with admission limited to 300 people in each morning and afternoon session. We had asked Chunyue Travel Agency to arrange everything the day before, so a van was waiting when we walked out of Hualien Station at noon ^.^

On the way from Hualien toward Mukumugi
Our ride into the mountains began just outside Hualien Station.

Everything we had read online said Mukumugi was about a twenty-minute drive from downtown Hualien. It turned out that twenty minutes only got us as far as the checkpoint…

Good thing our permits were already sorted out ^.^

The mountain-entry permit used for the Mukumugi visit
Our mountain-entry permit was ready before we reached the controlled area.

Once inside, Mr. Tseng—our tour leader, driver, and guide all rolled into one—took us along the eastern section of Provincial Highway 14. The better-known western section runs from Caotun toward Qingjing Farm, with Highway 14A continuing up toward Hehuanshan. The eastern section began in Wenlan Village and extended into the mountains; it had once been considered as a possible route for the Central Cross-Island Highway.

And this was the eastern starting point of Highway 14…

A narrow section of eastern Highway 14 in the Mukumugi mountains
The eastern start of Highway 14 was memorably narrow.

Hmm…possibly the narrowest provincial highway in all of Taiwan @.@'"

Before long, we reached the confluence of the Mugua and Qingshui rivers.

The mountain confluence of the Mugua and Qingshui rivers
The Mugua and Qingshui rivers meet between the mountains.

With steep mountains rising on both sides, “towering peaks” suddenly felt like a very literal description.

Steep green mountains rising beside the Mukumugi valley
Steep mountain walls enclosed the valley on every side.

Mr. Tseng first drove us to Longjian Power Plant, which was the end of the passable eastern section of Highway 14 at the time. We were not there to tour the plant, though. We had come for the locally famous Longjian ice pops!!

They had a soft, fine texture, and after coming all this way, of course we had to try one ^.^

A stop near Longjian Power Plant to try the local ice pops
We reached Longjian with one particular goal: the local ice pops.

Next, Mr. Tseng dropped us off partway down the road so we could walk and take in the stillness of the forest at our own pace.

A forest road walked during the Mukumugi visit
Mr. Tseng dropped us off so we could walk slowly downhill.

Trees, rock walls, and the winding road accompanied us downhill. The farther we moved from the van, the quieter the mountains became.

A mountain road winding through the Mukumugi forest
The winding road led through the trees and onward toward the river.

Then we finally arrived at the main destination of the day: the bank of the Mugua River.

The Mugua River valley with rocky banks and surrounding mountains
The valley opened up when we reached the bank of the Mugua River.
Clear Mugua River water flowing around rocks
Clear water flowed between the rocks of the Mugua River.

The water was so clear that we could see straight to the bottom. It was impossible not to take off our shoes and step in ^.^

A traveler wading in the clear water of the Mugua River
The water was far too inviting to keep our shoes on.

There were so many fish in the water. As soon as I put my feet in, they gathered all around me.

I swear it was not because my feet smelled T.T

Small fish gathering around a traveler's feet in the Mugua River
The fish gathered around as soon as my feet entered the water.
Fish swimming beneath the clear surface of the Mugua River
Schools of small fish were visible beneath the clear surface.

After plenty of time by the river, it was finally time to leave. Before going, we took one last look back at the valley and its clear water ^.^

A final view of the Mukumugi valley and surrounding mountains
One last look back at the mountains and water of Mukumugi.

August 2011 — Three Days in Hualien: Trip Overview

August 24, 2011 — Part 1: Mukumugi

August 24, 2011 — Part 2: Chateau de Chine Hotel

August 25, 2011 — Part 3: Hualien Farglory Ocean Park

August 26, 2011 — Part 4: Farglory Hotel

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